Mt. Chek by fair means: Bikepack/Sport climb

Staying local while recreating limits our environmental footprint and is fine form during a pandemic. A “Fair Means” approach cuts the engine out of the equation all together and uses sweat instead of fuel. There is great satisfaction in using banana’s and peanut butter instead of gasoline.

For this “Fair Means” adventure a 26km pedal from home to Chek Canyon to summit Mt. Chek was on the menu.

A popular multi-pitch named “Frontside 180” would be used to summit before descending and pedalling home. All food, water, rope/climbing gear would be carried on bike. A pair of Ortlieb Gravel panniers have proven to be very reliable hauling mules.

Mt. Chek tops out at a staggering 605m and is easily visible from HWY #99 N of Squamish. Frontside 180 is an overly scenic 220m, 10 pitch sport route that runs up the west ridge graded at 5.8. This route is very well protected, has comfortable belay stations, great views, and lots of moderate slab climbing. We bring about 20 draws and a 70m rope so are able to link many pitches.

An 8:30am departure after a big breakfast would leave plenty of time to pace conservatively and rest more than needed. Bringing coffee was a strategy to help take a rest when not needed. If you’re bad at resting and need to be bribed this will make sense. Too much garbage at a favorite roadside spot so I employed a fancy covid stick to make a stash for P.U. heading home. Really impressed to see the pile gone upon return! Strong work whoever you are!!

After 58 min of pedalling it was time to hide the bike in the bushes and cool off a bit. A short walk past “electric avenue” and we arrived at the bottom of Frontside 180 to find a party preparing.

We elected to give plenty of space and waited almost an hour to manage the overhead hazard before suiting up.

The first belay station is a huge ledge we tend to use and then linking 2 and 3 skips a neat but airy belay ledge creating an enjoyably long pitch. After the first 3 pitches the view really turns on and there is a substantial bench in the terrain making for a comfy belay and great rest opportunity. It is possible to bail off this bench or follow flags left and then downhill to find pitch 4.

The move getting off the ground to begin pitch 4 is surprisingly tricky.

Pitch 5 offers up the first 5.8 and some crack climbing to keep things interesting. The views continue to improve and there is another substantial bench in the terrain atop pitch 6. It is possible to bail from this route after pitch 3 and 6. Follow flagging uphill and then left to find the bottom of pitch 7.

This is a very featured, juggy 5.6 which feels quite easy after what you’ve already climbed. There is a 5.8 which follows but it too feels easy for the grade although the climbing is interesting and perhaps a personal fav. It’s easy living from here where 2 very short 5.4’s round out the route.

Follow markers almost directly uphill to the summit avoiding confusing cairns to the left. There is room to lounge and a marked descent trail found easily once you’re on the summit.

Descending is the crux for a grumpy knee but the prospect of water was good incentive.

Hydrated and fed, the return pedal was slow at 1h 33 min but the nutrition plan proved sufficient and it was really not bad at all.

A black bear foraging roadside near rubble creek was a definite highlight en-route home and not needing to use the forgotten headlamp was also nice. A cold beverage would follow and fond memories of time well spent!

Keep stoking the fire!